Continuing on through a fairly deep selection of 2012s of which I have come into possession, progressing roughly through the alphabet. I liked the first set very much.
2012 Fuligni Brunello di Montalcino. These guys are on a tear, have been strong since I’ve been drinking these wines but pushing the envelope this decade and now right near the top of the Brunello hierarchy IMO. Candied, precise red fruit nose, less jammy than the Lisini, brown spice, leafy. A WOW nose. Gritty tannins, high acid, very structured, mineral finish. Beauty and the Beast. Sexy and Dangerous. Call it what you like but this is rockstar stuff. Prices creeping up but remain exceedingly fair for the exceptional quality. Another WOTY candidate.
2012 Lisini Brunello di Montalcino. A go-to producer for me, always on. Super-ripe sweet fruit, high-toned and a nice earthy note. Richer, but less precise than the Fuligni. And in the mouth less tannic, less acidic. Ripe and fairly soft. Really a sweet, friendly, forward style of Brunello. People who think Italian wines are too austere should try this. Drinking very well now.
2012 Salicutti Brunello di Montalcino. Very dusty nose, herby, bit cherry. The earthy streak continues in the mouth. Kind of strange. Dark fruit tones, earthy and not very expressive. Barriques? I wonder if this is not a good bottle as I was expecting it to be really singing. But it’s similar to another bottle I opened a few months ago, which I thought was off. Hmm. This high-end producer who I have liked in the past has changed owners, but only in 2016 so that cannot be pertinent here. But this one is a bit of a puzzle.
Lisini the Golden Retriever of Brunello. Fuligni the stone cold killer – what a wine. Salicutti I don’t know what’s going on – that is the most expensive wine of the three and buyer beware based on my recent experience.