Three leading bottlings of Aglianico, the noble red grape from Campania.

2012 Paternoster Aglianico del Vulture ‘Don Anselmo’.  Light brown spice, cherry nose, not super-fragrant but attractive.  Strong mid-palate fruit in the mouth, subtle, but all the parts are in place.  A bit drying finish, but a very nice wine.

2012 Luigi Tecce Taurasi ‘Poliphemo’.  I would love to visit this place, Luigi Tecce seems like some sort of Yoda of Taurasi.  This wine more purple than the others, dark fruit profile, mineral, violet.  Crunchy plum fruit, firm tannins, nice mid-palate length.  Tannins a bit more coarse than the Don Anselmo, though not more prominent.  Nice lifting, floral finish.

2014 Elena Fucci Aglianico del Vulture ‘Titolo’.  Dusty, distinctly menthol nose.  Crisp, bright attack.  Less round than the others on the palate, leaner.  OK but not at the same level as the other two.

Italy is a big place and I don’t like to tar with too broad a brush, but 2014 was a tough vintage across much of the country (and indeed beyond) and I suspect that phenomenon may have extended all the way down to Campania.  On the other hand both of the 2012s are very nice wines, drinking well.  Stylistically a bit different but hard to pick a winner between them.  Next up: inserting Mastroberardino into the mix.